Many men, myself included, find suits appealing in part because of math. Suits’ “geometry” and “proportion” are matters of measurement and equations, things we feel we can get right. Or at least get partial credit for if we show our work. So we can get a little uncomfortable when you throw out the textbook and erase the lines connecting tailoring to the quasi-mathematical rules that (sort of) govern it.
The guys at Styleforum are currently running a challenge in which members post suit or blazer-incorporating ensembles. Since these are members who post mostly in Styleforum’s loosely defined Streetwear and Denim subforum, these are not looks that will be judged on adherence to rules, but more likely on intangibles like vibe, character, and design. More humanities-friendly qualities. These are not “sharp” looks but “cool” looks. (Yes, yes; cool evolves and Armani did slouch comfy suits 30 years ago.)
From the initial crop of submissions, I particularly like the photos above, from (l to r) Bruce in NY, Rob in Gold Coast, Australia, and (bottom photo) David in Melbourne (not quite a suit). Shoulders are divoted; bottom buttons buttoned; wrinkles unpressed. My point is not that they all still look good, although they do, it’s more that the suit can be untethered from diagrams of lapel width and precise shoulder to shoulder measurements, as well as its role in modern office life/GQ-approved suit occasions. Not every suit in your closet has to be homework.
–Pete