These days, our friend PG from MostExerent works for a tech company that frowns on suits. His blog’s now mostly a record of his cycling and travel. There’s no better expert on the shape of tailored clothes, though, and his advice here is very much worth paying attention to.
Another gem from my archives (2011) which will answer some recent messages & this time uncovered by linenforsummertweedforwinter:
Shape, Drape or Both?
Both is possible & preferable in my opinion – too many are trapped into thinking that tight fitting means shape.. When it is actually the opposite.
See how my jacket still has shape even not button up.
How is this possible?
Start with the shoulders then working down to the cuff:
- Make sure they sit on with a slight extension & not before the shoulder point
- “Natural” shaped shoulder line gives a softer & more sensual appearance whilst a structured shoulder will add power as well as elegance – nothing wrong with either as long as they suit your body type & not over built.
- The chest needs enough fullness & not tightness – see the clean subtle draping. No creases or gaping. Everything looks ”natural”
- The waist has ”natural” suppression at the ”natural” waist point to give shape – not tight like a corset
- Hips are in line with the shoulder or below to give balance
- Pants are sitting at your ”natural” waist not hips
- Open quarters aka the bottom of the jacket where the left & right meet (noticeable when buttoned) will mirror the lapels in a figure eight
- Skirt of the jacket has a slight flare
- Pantaloons are hanging naturally & with a slight break.
So as it starts to warm up, ”airforce blue” is always a great option to wearing navy or grey. Especially if there is some mohair in the mix. This suit is totally different in direct light, it’s like DISCO! So one has to ensure the other components are subtle.
You want to make sure the over all effect does not compete but look ”natural”.
The oncoming eye should not be competing for any detail..
So DITCH the H belt or novelty cuff links..
Details | Suit – P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Shirt – P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit tie – Drakes (this one is a mix of black & navy) | PS – vintage Japanese kimono cloth | DubMunks – John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul for GW
* My Sistah just enjoys PHOTO BOMBING!
** FYI – I am standing 3m away from the camera whilst my Sistah is 1.5m
Cut your coat according to your cloth.